The Burlington Free Press Says:
In a market where 75 percent of restaurants fail in their first year, an
establishment going strong for half a century must be doing something right.
That’s right. This month, the Dog Team Tavern in Middlebury celebrates its
50th anniversary by cutting prices about 15 years, while retaining the
little extras that have kept the Williamson clan coming back ince the 1950s.
On Sunday evening, Eleanor Williamson of Bristol celebrated her 82nd
birthday there. She was accompanied by her five sons, who learned company
manners around the Dog Team’s polished drop-leaf tables.
Mark Williamson of Charlotte, for example, remembers spinning the relish
wheel, which still contains horseradishy cottage cheese, pickled beets and a
unique sweet sauerkraut.
‘‘Hey, we come back because they’ve got a good location and plenty of free
parking,’’ jokes eldest son Jack Williamson, of Charlotte.
Add to that a complete roast pork, pot roast, rainbow trout, fried chicken,
McKenzie ham meal, salmon, jumbo shrimp, sea scallops, N.Y. sirloin, roast beef -
and you can expect a stampede.
But it’s a congenial family crowd waiting in the Dog Team living room,
cluttered with memorabilia.
The Dog Team Tavern was established by Dr. Wilfred Grenfell, a British
physician/philanthropist who worked among native peoples of Canada. Grenfell
retired to Vermont, setting up the tavern with proceeds to benefit his
projects. The Dog Team’s walls display needlepoint tapestries depicting
Eskimo scenes; similar works, produced by Canada’s Grenfell Industries, have
been featured by the American Folk Art Museum in New York City.
Other furnishings - ceramics, figurines, a shell collection imbedded in a
coffee table, and antique farm and kitchen implements - complete the totally
non-commercial hodgepodge.
Chris Hesslink and Robert Mahoney are only the Dog Team’s third owners.
Mahoney remembers eating there with his parents and eight siblings when they
visited relatives in Middlebury. ‘‘We haven’t changed the basic systems,’’
he says. ‘‘Chris and I feel more like curators than entrepreneurs.’’
The system (now computer-assisted) works amazingly well. Reservations aren’t
accepted, except for big parties. Diners order when they enter; appetizers
and warm anadama bread are on the table when they are called. The relish
wheel arrives soon after, then a big wooden salad bowl for the table, with
three scrumptious homemade dressings.
Then, the main course, with mashed potatoes and fresh vegetable served
family style by a collegiate-type waitstaff.
‘‘We keep preparations and presentation simple,’’ Mahoney says.
‘‘No technical stuff,’’ Hesslink adds, meaning spicy sauces or garnishes.
That’s confidence, considering how some restaurants use ‘‘technical stuff’’
to mask mediocre ingredients.
Here, only good stuff makes the right stuff. Desserts, condiments and
breads are done in-house. Cucumbers without a trace of bitterness. Ultra-fresh
seafood. Hand-cut steaks. Interesting wines by the glass, and house-brand maple
pepper on the table.
Plus those wicked sticky buns. ‘‘We take ours home,’’ says Jean Harrington
of Burlington, a customer for 40 years. ‘‘You can’t eat it all.’’
Do the right thing. Serve the right stuff. Charge the good price. Because
when all is said and done, the one with the most sticky buns, wins.